BVI Trip - Day 9

The Caves at Privateer Bay

 

We hoped to dive and snorkel the Indians near Norman Island this morning, but the early morning risers had already taken the few mooring balls available. We turned back around and went to Privateer Bay at Norman Island to do the caves instead. They have mooring balls placed right in front of the caves which feel way too close to the rocks. When the boat swings toward them you feel like you are near disaster. Once you are in the water you find there is 30' of water and the mooring lines look really solid which allows you to relax a bit. The water is clear, the fish life is abundant and the caves are a blast to swim in and out of. We highly recommend this stop if you ever get the chance.

It was time to put up some sail and head back past Soper's Hole to Jost Van Dyke. It is located north of the west end of Tortola. Sandy Cay was our target, but as we approached this little "Gilligan's Island" a squall line popped up to the east heading our way. We motored over to the first bay in Tortola to tuck into Little Harbor which wasn't even on our list of bays to visit. Everyone who sails to Jost Van Dyke goes to Great Harbor (Foxy's Bar) or White Bay (Soggy Dollar Bar) leaving Little Harbor a quiet tiny jewel for us to experience.

Harris' Place, a little shop and Sydney's Peace & Love Bar

The squall line moved to the north of us and lucky for us, we just received a small bit of rain. Right after we grabbed a mooring ball a beat up dinghy motored from shore and we met a tiny bundle of joy, happiness, sweetness and eagerness all wrapped up in the local entrepreneur, Cynthia. Her smiling face and her irresistible sales pitch for dinner won us over immediately. She offered us our mooring ball for free if we ate at Harris' Place which we learned was her father's restaurant which she now ran nearly singlehandedly.

Cynthia

We cleaned up and headed over to the other bar, Sydney's Peace & Love. Mike had read numerous accounts of cruisers visiting this spot which is famous for it's open bar. As our dinghy motored up to their dock there was one person in sight. He was sound asleep in a plastic lawn chair only stirring when he heard our outboard. He grabs our line to tie us off, asks us if we are there for dinner to which we respond, "Not today, we're just here for a couple drinks." He sits back in his plastic chair and goes directly back to sleep. Gotta love the Caribbean.

Sydney's Peace & Love has a spiral notebook on the bar in which you write down the name of your boat and then jot down any drinks you make for yourself. Mike played bartender and made up some Painkillers using the pre-made mix in the freezer and Pusser's Rum. Sitting in the shade sipping Painkillers we met the ladies from the only other boat in the bay. They were on a classic Mason sailboat that looked like it was ready to go anywhere in the world. The ladies explained that they flew down to St. Thomas to join the two men for a summer of sailing adventure. One lady was tan, fit and confident. The other lady was a riot. She proudly told us that her job on the boat was "Boat Fluff!" She sleeps in late, doesn't cook, clean or sail. She reads, sleeps, eats and talks. Perfect boat fluff.

Sydney's Peace and Love

Brenda wandered out into the clear shallow water and loved seeing the beautiful starfish right at her feet.

 

Later that evening we moved over to Harris' Place to enjoy the promised feast. Cynthia came to meet us decked out in her best outfit with all her jewelry shining. She sat us at the corner table right by the water and started telling us what her specialties were. Knowing that she loved to cook, Peter and Karen told her that we would like to have a " Chef's Special." She was to cook whatever she loved to cook and serve for four people. She grinned even wider than normal just loving the idea. She served us drinks and served fresh warm breads to hold us while she prepared our meals. Next came a pumpkin bisque soup that was just wonderful. A tasty salad with her special mango dressing was the next course. The main meal arrived starting with two huge lobster tails presented opened for easy eating. There was a seasoned grouper that was the best tasting food any of us had during the entire trip. Barbecued chicken, shrimp, Caribbean macaroni and cheese, rice and beans, and more. It was as an event and a meal all in one.

We sure are glad that passing squall brought us into this tiny bay. We would surely have missed it otherwise.

Harris' Place

 

 

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